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  • On the Road
229 Days
  • Quick Facts
  • Currently in Costa Rica
  • Miles Driven: 11535
  • Countries Visited: 8
  • Days Camping: 133
  • Days Indoors: 89

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Costa Rica: Central America Lite or Overlanding Playground?
Written by Jared on May 18, 2012

Speak no evil, hear no evil, see no evil.Start: April 29, El Castillo
Finish: May 12, Atenas
River Crossings: One Big, Five Small
Consecutive Days Camping: 21
Nights Spent in Ridiculous Vacation House: 8
Birds Successfully Identified: About 30

The past two weeks have brought us through several extremes. First, we set a record for the number of consecutive days spent camping. Then we move into a vacation house with our visiting parents that may very well be the nicest place I've spent a night.

Our travels took us from the shores of Lake Arenal, along three hours of dirt road, through several rivers and eventually to the town of Santa Elena, situated high in the cloud forests of north-central Costa Rica. From there we dropped down to Atenas, a short hop east of the capital city San Jose, where we spent a very relaxing week with family; visiting, recharging and day-tripping our way around central Costa Rica.

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Campin' With Critters in Costa Rica
Written by Jared on May 07, 2012

A magpie jay gives us the evil eye.Start: April 22, Junquillal Bay
Finish: April 29, El Castillo
Nights Campin' With Critters: All of 'em
Baseball Size Wasps Seen: 3

Costa Rica! Pura vida. We've been here for little over a week and have camped the entire time. Every day brings a new creature into our campsite, and every night we tuck in early to avoid the bugs, some of which are down right monstrous.

We started our Costa Rica experience on the coast, just south of the Nicaraguan border camped in a national park. Then headed to the Nicoya Peninsula and stayed five nights on the beach in three different places.

After becoming fed up with the heat we drove inland towards the Arenal region to see one of the world's most active volcanoes and picturesque lakes.

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Nicaragua to Costa Rica Border Crossing
Written by Jessica on May 05, 2012

Nicaragua and Costa Rica flagsBorder name: Peñas Blancas
Closest major cities: San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua and La Cruz, Costa Rica
Cost to exit Nicaragua:  C$67 Cordobas ($3 USD) per person ($1USD tax, $2USD for the stamp)
Cost for vehicle: CR$2175 colones ($4.50 USD) fumigation, CR$8365 colones ($17 USD) insurance
Total time:  2 hours
Date crossed: Saturday, April 23, 2012

The steps:

  1. Stop at the small booth on the left side of the road. If it’s busy, park just past the booth.
  2. Give your passports to one of the guards out front. They will look at them, but not do anything.
  3. Give the vehicle permit to another man near the booth, he will scribble something on it and hand it back.
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Packing List: Central and South America Overland
Written by Jessica on May 04, 2012

Our PanAm packing planBelow is a huge list of all the gear for our 15 month drive from Seattle to Argentina. Please note that this article is being published in the middle of the trip, and we will continue to update as we travel and buy, sell, or break equipment.

We have also published more detailed breakdowns of what we packed. These sections include photos and sometimes more detailed information. Links are by section in the below list.

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Nicaragua Budget Recap
Written by Jared on May 01, 2012

Another country, another budget recap. Like the last couple, this one's a quickie. We only spent 16 days in Nicaragua, largely because our CA-4 visas were running out of time, and we have family visiting in Costa Rica.

Nicaragua is a very inexpensive country, but I may just be saying that because of the shock of Costa Rican prices the past couple days. Food and lodging, especially camping, were the cheapest we've seen yet. Even in the tourist-laden towns of León and Granada.

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Nicaragua Wifi & Phone Report
Written by Jessica on April 30, 2012

claro - movistar recargaGeneral availability: Medium-High
Quality of bandwidth: Pretty terrible
Frequency of internet in campgrounds: Rare
Frequency of internet in hotels: Surprisingly high. Everywhere we stayed had internet access.

Areas visited: With our CA-4 visas rapidly running out, and family coming to visit in Costa Rica, we didn’t have a lot of time to play in Nicaragua. We spent several days in each of these places: Leon, Granada, Isla de Ometepe and San Juan del Sur.

Connections

Same ol’ story here. Free hostel wifi connections are painful at best. Connections die constantly, especially with frequent power outages.

Most hotels have free wifi. In remote areas, like Ometepe, there may be a fee. We are seeing more typical coffee/sandwich cafés offering free wifi. Touristy places like Granada, Leon and San Juan del Sur had plenty of places to connect.

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Campin', Nicaragua Style
Written by Jared on April 29, 2012

A view of Ometepe Island from the ferry.

Start: April 13, Isla Ometepe
Finish: April 21, San Juan del Sur
Cheap Bottles of Nicaraguan Hooch Drank: About a dozen
Total Number of Overlanders Camped on the Beach: 9
Total Cost to Camp 8 Nights: $30

This week was all about campin'. And meeting up with fellow overlanders we saw briefly in Guatemala. We didn't really do a whole lot aside from hang out, drink cheep booze and shoot the shit, but that's pretty much the definition of campin'.

We spent five days on Ometepe Island, pictured above, situated in the middle of Lake Nicaragua. And then headed to a small beach near San Juan del Sur on the Pacific Ocean for a few more days of lounging in the heat.

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Churches of León and Granada
Written by Kobus on April 25, 2012

León and Granada have been long-time rivals, fighting to be the political and spiritual center of Nicaragua. Walking through either of these cities it's easy to see why. Rustic colonial charm lines every street and culminates with every church and cathedral. These cathedrals and churches are among the oldest, largest and grandest we have seen on this trip.

The best way to showcase these rival cities is with a series of photos. You could spend weeks here, use up gigs of memory, and still not capture the full color of your surroundings.

León

Basilica of the Assumption

Basilica of the Assumption

First up, the Basilica of the Assumption in Leon. This is the largest cathedral in Central America. Construction was started in 1747 and took 100 years to complete.

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Burnin' Up in Nicaragua
Written by Jared on April 23, 2012

The three of us in Granada, Nicaragua.Start: April 6, San Miguel, El Salvador
Finish: April 13, Leon, Nicaragua
Borders Crossed: 2
Average Temperature: 98F
Pints of Guinness Drank: 1

This week's adventure consisted of a double border crossing day, two beautiful colonial cities and extremely hot temperatures. From El Salvador we drove through Honduras and arrived in the city of León, Nicaragua in time to have a few mojitos, sweat profusely in front of a fan, and pass out.

We saw a bit of the Semana Santa festivities in León, where we stayed for Easter weekend. In Grenada we spent a day working online, and a couple more enjoying the city. Horse-drawn carriages, a dirty lake beach, cigar rolling, the largest hammock in the country and more churches than you could shake a stick at.

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El Salvador Wifi & Phone Report: More of the Same
Written by Jessica on April 20, 2012

tigo and claro logosGeneral Availability: Medium-High
Quality of Bandwidth: In cities, excellent. Everywhere else, good luck.
Frequency of internet in hotels: Medium. Always in hostels and mid to high end hotels. Not likely in small guesthouses.
Frequency of internet in campgrounds: Low. Only expect internet if the campground is attached to a restaurant or a hotel.

Areas visited: We spent just under two weeks in El Salvador. A night in Santa Ana, a few days camping on the Ruta de las Flores, and a few more on the beach at Playa Sunzal. Plus a good three nights at a hostel in San Salvador before heading out to San Miguel for one night before a long haul to Nicaragua.

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Honduras to Nicaragua Border Crossing
Written by Jessica on April 20, 2012

Honduras and nicaragua flagsBorder name: Guasaule
Closest major cities: Guasaule, Honduras and Somotillo, Nicaragua
Cost for visas: $12 per person
Cost for vehicle: $3 for fumigation. $12 for insurance. Permit is free.
Total time: 1 hour

Note: This is part two of the border crossing marathon day. We left from San Miguel, El Salvador in hope of reaching Leon, Nicaragua on the same day. Part 1 of the border crossing is here. To complicate matters, we were attempting this on the Friday of Semana Santa, which turned out to be a blessing. Borders were quiet and touts had better places to be. We were in Leon drinking mojitos before sun down.

The steps

  1. When you see a small shack on the left of the road with a guard. Go to the far left. It will look like a bomb recently went off in the area, and your intuition will be telling you that you are about to be mugged. Welcome to the Guasaule border.
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